Apr 30, 20236 min read

Preserving Cultural Heritage through Kharad Weaving: A Look into the Artisans' Lives

Updated: Mar 19, 2024

Have you ever come across a post or article that moved you so much that it led you to take action? That's exactly what happened to me when I stumbled upon Houseofweaves' Instagram post on the struggles and amazing work of kharad weavers. As I delved deeper into this fascinating craft, I had the honour of interviewing Shree Samat Ji, a visionary

and incredibly knowledgeable figure in kharad weaving. Through our conversation, I gained a deeper understanding of the inspiration and vision behind this beautiful and sustainable craft. Join me on this journey as I explore the world of kharad weaving, the artisans behind it, and the incredible impact it has on both the environment and society.

Kharad weaving is a traditional weaving technique that originated in Kutch, a district in the Western state of Gujarat, India. It’s an ancient handwoven carpet making tradition that is approximately over 700 years old. These carpets are woven using natural threads, i.e. wools from goats, sheep and camels. Kharad weaving used wool from the camels traditionally, but as the number of camels decreased in the region sheep and goat wools are used nowadays. The wool is first washed, dyed, and spun into a yarn, then woven on handloom where the yarn turns into a fabric with a plain weave or twill weave.

What makes Kharad weaving unique is that the fabric is woven with a slit in the middle, which is then cut to create two separate pieces of fabric. The edges of the fabric are then folded over and stitched together to create a strong, durable fabric that is often used for rugs, blankets, and other heavy-duty items.

Kharad weaving is a time-consuming and labour-intensive process that requires a lot of skill and patience. The resulting fabric is beautiful, durable, and highly valued for its quality and craftsmanship. Today, Kharad weaving is still practiced by very few skilled artisans, who are working to preserve this traditional weaving technique and keep it alive for future generations.

Shree Tejsi bhai and his son Samat Ji are renowned Kharad weavers from Kutch, Gujarat, India. They belong to a family of weavers who have been practicing the craft of Kharad weaving for generations. They are one of the last few families left practicing this age old weaving technique in India.

Tejsi bhai is known for his exceptional skills in Kharad weaving. He has mastered the art of weaving using wool from the sheep that are bred in the region. What makes Tejsi bhai’s work unique is his ability to incorporate traditional designs and motifs into his weavings. He has developed new colour combinations, patterns, and designs, giving a modern touch to this traditional craft.

Samat ji his son who is equally talented has also developed new weaving techniques to create more intricate and complex patterns to keep the craft relevant to changing times. The father - son duo has not only helped to preserve and promote Kharad weaving but has also created economic opportunities for local communities in the region. His efforts have helped bring recognition to the art of Kharad weaving and have made it more accessible to people all over the world.

Shree Tejsi bhai has received several awards and recognition for his work in Kharad weaving, including the “National Award for Master Craftsman” by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, in 2005.

Samat ji, following his father’s footsteps has also earned plenty of recognition and several awards for his work in Kharad weaving. In 2013, he was awarded the “National Award for Master Craftsman” by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, for his outstanding contribution to Kharad weaving. He has also received awards from the Kala Raksha Vidhyalaya, a centre for traditional art and crafts education in Kutch.

A Sustainable and Animal-Friendly Textile Production Method

During my interview with Samat ji, he provided me with numerous reasons why kharad weaving is a sustainable and eco-friendly practice that is kind to animals and the planet. He highlighted the use of natural fibers, the absence of harmful chemicals, the handmade process, the low-waste production, and the durability of the final product. His insights into the craft helped me understand why it is so important to support sustainable textile production and preserve the traditional knowledge of skilled artisans.

Ethical treatment of livestock: Since the kharad weavers are a Pastoral community, they have traditionally relied on livestock for their livelihoods, and they have developed unique ways of caring for their animals. Pastoral communities move their herds to different grazing lands including wild grasses and shrubs depending on the season and weather conditions. This mobility allows their animals to graze on fresh and nutritious grass and reduces the risk of overgrazing and land degradation.

They also practice natural disease prevention methods, such as using herbal remedies and avoiding the overuse of antibiotics. They prioritize the welfare of their animals as they are their livelihood.

Factory farmed animals raised for their wool are cruelly treated and maintained. It typically involves keeping animals in confined spaces and feeding them artificial feed and supplements. The animals are often bred for specific traits that maximize productivity, and their natural behaviours and needs may not be prioritized. This can lead to issues such as animal welfare concerns, environmental degradation, and the overuse of antibiotics.

Use of Natural Fibers: Kharad weaving uses natural fibers such as wool, camel hair, and cotton, which are renewable and biodegradable. This means that they can be grown or harvested again and again, without causing harm to the environment.

Chemical-Free Process: Unlike many other textile production methods, kharad weaving does not use harmful chemicals, dyes, or bleaches. This reduces the environmental impact of the production process and ensures that the final product is safe for consumers to use.

Handmade Process: Kharad weaving is a handcrafted process that requires minimal use of machinery, which reduces energy consumption and carbon emissions. Additionally, the use of traditional handloom techniques helps to preserve the cultural heritage and skills of the artisans.

Low Waste Production: The production process of kharad weaving involves minimal waste, as the leftover materials can be reused or recycled. This reduces the amount of waste that is generated during the production process, which is beneficial for the environment.

Durability: Kharad weaving produces durable, high-quality textiles that can last for years, reducing the need for frequent replacement and consumption of resources. This means that the production process has a lower overall impact on the environment, as fewer resources are needed to produce the same amount of textiles.

The Negative Impact of Fake Art on Artisans and their Cultural Heritage

Artisans who create genuine art often carry on a cultural heritage that has been passed down for generations. When fake art is sold as genuine, it can undermine the authenticity of the cultural heritage, leading to a loss of identity and heritage for the artisans and their community.

Artisans often create genuine art by putting a lot of effort and time into developing their skills and techniques. If fake art is sold as genuine and achieves commercial success, it can discourage artisans from innovating and developing new styles or techniques, which is a big blow for their motivation to continue.

My journey into the world of kharad weaving with Samat ji has been very enriching and insightful. I cannot stress the importance of supporting genuine artisans like Tejsi Ji and Sampat Ji. Their craft is not just a means of livelihood but a way of life that has been passed down through generations. By purchasing their handmade products, we not only support their livelihoods but also preserve a valuable cultural heritage. It is crucial to be aware of influencers who peddle misinformation and sell fake art, and to resist the temptation to buy cheap imitations. Let's make a conscious effort to stand for something that is authentic and sustainable. Remember, for Tejsi Bhai and Samat Ji, their craft is more than just a product - it is a representation of their tradition, their community, and their way of life. Let's do our part in preserving it for generations to come.

As a reseller who sources ethically made artisan products directly from the source, I believe in fair and sustainable practices. While I make a small earning for the work I put in as a business owner, I do not want to profit from artists who are struggling to make ends meet. That's why I have listed a collection of Tejsi Ji and Samat Ji’s beautiful products below, with 100% of the proceeds going directly to them. I have also provided their contact details, so you can reach out to them directly, if you would like to support them further.

My aim is to empower these talented artisans and promote their incredible work while contributing to a more sustainable and equitable world.